Power8 Workshop Wasn’t Designed Just For Lure Makers….. But It Sure Feels That Way.
You definitely don’t have to be a lure maker to find the Power8 Workshop super handy. If you’re a handyman or DIYer, there’s a ton of uses for this innovative tool. But right now you’re on a lure making site, and this setup is awesome for stepping up your wooden lure production.
Personally, I purchased a Power8 Workshop to take my lure making on the road with me. I love running classes and demos, and this unit is so portable I can do that while the family is travelling. No need to hire venues with machinery, no need for mains power – I can run classes anywhere! On the river bank, beach front, private home….. you name it. So my family is enjoying an awesome extended fishing and camping road trip – and I get to keep on lure making.
Travel aside, folks grab these units for a whole range of reasons. Some don’t have room for a full size workshop. Many don’t want to buy a bunch of tools when one unit can do the lot. Some want to work from a boat, RV, apartment……. Whatever the situation, it’s hard to go past the Power8 Workshop for a portable, versatile and functional lure making setup!
“I told the wife about all the handyman stuff I’d do if I had a Power8 Workshop. Then I went ahead and turned it into a lure making factory…..”
Here’s How The Power8 Workshop Can Have You Catching Fish On Homemade Lures Fast…..
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… And Here’s The Bonus Lure Making Pack You’ll Get With Your Power8 Workshop:
More About The Power8 Workshop
Tip #1- Docking Blanks To Length
A small table saw is perfect for machining blanks.
Using the Power8 Workshop rip fence in conjunction with the protractor make it easy to cut a bunch of blanks to length quickly. Just slide the wood along the protractor until it’s stopped by the rip fence. Then use the protractor to push it through the blade.
But there’s a danger. The blank can bind between the blade and rip fence and get thrown at you with ferocious force.
To avoid this, I simply place a stop block in front of the rip fence. The piece to be docked is slid to the stop block, rather than the rip fence. When the the protractor is moved forwards there’s a gap between the end of the wood and the rip fence. The wood can no longer bind, making things a whole lot safer.
Tip #2: Use The Power8 Workshop To Quickly Cut Slots For Through Wires
I love to fit through wires into my wooden lures. Sure, properly installed screw eyes are strong, but through wires are near bulletproof. And I like to know a toothy fish won’t get away by chewing through the lure body. It takes a big fish to destroy a lure – one you really don’t want to lose. Enough said!
With a small table saw and a thin kerf saw blade cutting a slot for installing a through wire is a snap. It takes seconds to get a straight, centered, thin groove of the right width and uniform depth. The Power8 Workshop comes with a blade that cuts a slot suitable for 1-1.6mm through wires, which is perfect for most lures.
I made this simple jig with a view to being able to safely, quickly and accurately cut through wire slots in lure blanks in all of the sizes I commonly use. It required modification of the blade guard (CAUTION!), but once fitted make the whole operation remarkably safe and easy.
Tip #3: Accurately Cutting Diving Lip Slots Using The Power8 Workshop
It’s no secret that making crankbaits is one of my favourite things to do. And one of the most important aspects of making these lures is to get the diving lip aligned properly.
Normally I’d use a tablesaw or bandsaw for this. But since taking my lure making to the road I’ve had to revert to cutting lip slots with a handsaw.
Until Power8 Workshop came to the rescue, that is! A simple jig makes the cutting of perfectly straight, square and uniform depth slots for diving lips a snap! Even for those tricky, deep diving crankbaits with near horizontal diving lips.
The diving lip slots made by my Power8 Workshop are perfect for 1.5-2mm thick polycarb, but a little too wide for most circuit board lips. For thicker polycarbonate I simply pass the lure blank over the blade two or more times. I adjust the rip fence a millimeter or so each pass until the slot is the perfect width for the polycarbonate I’m using.
Tip#4: Accurate Placement Of Weights, Rattles And 3D Eyes
OK, so it doesn’t have all of the bells and whistles of a dedicated pillar drill. But the Power8 Workshop allows me to do one of the most critical tasks in wooden lure making – drill accurate holes for weights, rattles and eyes. And there’s no jig required, just some scrap to place under the work piece!
Weighting wooden lures properly is the number one way to get get maximum action. But any misalignment of the weights spells disaster. Unbalanced lures with unnatural actions….. yuck!
Lure makers need perfectly vertical holes with a level of accuracy that’s not easy with a hand held drill. It’s pretty straight forward with a Power8 Workshop though……
A couple of quick tips:
- A sharp brad point bit is a good choice for drilling flat bottomed holes, especially for eyes.
- Don’t expect a portable drill press to be as rigid as a pillar drill. Use a sharp brad-point bit and minimal pressure on the lever. Basically let the weight of the drill do the work, don’t force it.
- Before shaping a blank I like to drill fully through with a 1.5mm drill bit where the 3D eye will go. After shaping, the 1.5mm hole on each side of the lure becomes the pilot for brad point bit. After that, drilling eye sockets is simple.
- Use a sharp drill bit and higher speeds for clean cutting, especially for softer woods like balsa.
- Drill the weight holes before cutting the through wire slot. You’ll get cleaner holes that way.
Tip #5: Using The Power8 Workshop To Make Slots For Rattles And Weights
Quite often I’ll want to make a slot in a lure blank, rather than a hole. For instance, I might do this when I want to make a weight-shift mechanism for longer casting. Or a large rattle chamber. Or even if I want to reduce the weight of the blank.
It’s possible to do this using a router. Or you might drill a couple of holes and then go to work with a scroll saw. Or maybe use a rotary tool like a dremel.
But here’s how I do it with the Power8 workshop in pillar drill mode. It’s a simple three step process for making slots.
I use a brad point bit first, to drill a hole at the start and end of the channel or slot. Next, I remove as much of the waste as I can by making multiple holes using the brad point bit. I might even switch to a small spade if I’m removing a lot of timber.
Finally, I chuck a tungsten carbide, double cut rotary burr into the drill. You’ll find these in better hardware stores or online – and they’re not too expensive in smaller sizes. I set the drill on high speed and then go to work with the burr, removing the waste left by the drill and smoothing the interior of the slot.
That’s it! Simple as it gets.
Tip #6: Safely Cut Small, Shapes Pieces In Scroll Saw Mode
The scroll saw mode of the Power8 Workshop is actually an inverted sabre saw. And it’s a great, relatively safe alternative to a bandsaw.
With some thought, I’ve used the scroll function to cut out lure bodies down to 2.5″ (65mm), though it can be tricky working around the guard. I’ve found winding the guard down fimly so it’s holding the wood quite tightly reduces “chatter” and gives a better result.
Apart from cutting out the lure bodies, the scroll saw feature can be used to hollow out rattle chambers and to cut polycarbonate for diving lips. I use a thinner blad for these, since the curves need to be a little tighter than for the external surface of a lure body.
Tip #7: Smoothing, Sanding And Shaping With The Power 8 Workshop
I teach lure making, rather than make lures to sell. So high volume production isn’t usually a priority for me and I enjoy the therapeutic value of whittling a lure with a knife or chisel.
But if you’re looking for a faster way to shape lures, try putting a flapwheel sander into the Power8 Workshop drill table. I’ve found it’s a fast and easy way to shape soft wood like balsa and cedar.
For harder timber, the flapwheel makes short work of removing chisel and tool marks, smoothing out the curves and cleaning up the lines.
The flap wheel is also an easy way to shape and deburr polycarbonate diving lips. You’ll find them at most hardware stores.
Bonus#1: Turn Your Power8 Workshop Into A Lure Factory
I’ve been using my Power8 Workshop as a mobile lure making machine and teaching tool for a while now. And I’ve developed a heap of jigs (like those above) that take full advantage of the features of the WS3E. Simple stuff that make lure making faster, easier and even more fun.
I don’t want my customers to reinvent the wheel….. So I’m putting together a bunch of video and photo tutorials tutorials on how to turn a Power8 Workshop into a wooden lure making machine.
You’ll find out how to quickly and easily cut through wire slots, diving lip slots (even for deep divers), rattle chambers, weight shift slots. Plus, you’ll be able to cut shaped lure bodies, make perfect diving lips, sand and shape lure bodies and more.
These tutorials are expected to be available from July 1, 2017 and I plan to charge USD$49.95 for access to them. But if you purchase a Power8 Workshop from me today, you’ll get full access to the tutorials as soon as they’re available. FREE!
Bonus #2: Stick Bait Making Short Course
Stickbaits are the perfect first project for a new Power8 Workshop owner! So I’m throwing in access to this awesome short course as a bonus for purchasing your portable workshop from my website.
Normally USD$14.95, this 3-week course takes you through the making of 3 deadly stickbaits – and includes both video tutorials and printable stickbait templates.
Once you’ve made these lures you’ll easily be able to modify and adapt the templates to create your own designs.
The video at left shows the making of one of the stickbait lures included in this course…… using hand tools. Of course, a Power8 Workshop will make the process far faster and easier, so let me show you how!
Bonus #3: Access To My Exclusive, Private Lure Making Mentoring Program
“Wooden Lure Making Secrets” is my private mentoring program that is normally only available to paying customers.
In “Wooden Lure Making Secrets” is where I share hot lure making tips with a bunch of experienced and newbie lure makers. There are live chats, live webinars, lure template giveaways, special deals and competitions to get involved in. Plus, it’s a place where you can interact with me personally, ask questions and get advice not just from myself, but from a bunch of great wooden lure makers.
Membership to “Wooden Lure Making Secrets” is normally USD$5 per month. But my Power8 Workshop customers will get a whole year of membership for FREE!
More About The Power8 Workshop
Power8 Workshop is a clever and innovative system of 18V cordless power tools that operate from a single “power handle”. The tools come in a clever box that can be used to convert them into a bunch of handy stationary machines.
Cordless Hammer Drill/Driver/Table Drill
Put the drill head on the power handle and you’ve got a tough, powerful 18V cordless drill/driver. As you’d expect from a quality cordless drill, it’s reversible, has hammer drill functionality, 13mm keyless chuck, driver ratchet settings and variable speeds. I use the battery drill for driving in screw eyes, drilling eye sockets and making twist eyes.
Put the drill head on the post and suddenly you have a great light duty pillar drill. I use this for drilling weight holes, making rattle chambers, weight shift systems, sanding and shaping operations.
Cordless Circular Saw And Table Saw
Attach the power handle to the circular saw head and you have a neat cordless circular saw. I don’t use the cordless saw so much for lure making, but have found it useful for a pile of home handyman tasks. Cutting decking boards, fence palings and plywood/mdf sheet are among the tasks I’ve used the circular saw for.
Attach the circular saw to the underside of the box and you have a great min-table saw. When it comes to lure making, this is one of the most useful features of the Power8 Workshop. I use the table saw for cutting blanks to length, making through wire slots, cutting diving lips and making jigs to speed up lure making.
Cordless Sabre Saw And Scroll Saw
The sabre saw head slots onto the power handle to create a handy cordless sabre (jig) saw. Once again, I don’t use this a lot for lure making, except for making jigs. But it’s great for home handyman stuff like cutting holes or curves in sheet materials.
When the sabre saw is inverted in the Power8 Workshop case you have a very useful scroll saw. I’ve found it’s great for cutting curved lure bodies, saving a ton of time on carving and sanding. it’s also a great way to cut medium to large diving lips from polycarbonate.
LED Flashlight & Lighted Work Table
As a fisherman and outdoorsman I’ve lost count of the number of times I’ve used the lighting functions of my Power8 Workshop! It’s super bright – and with LED’s and fast charging 18V battery I never have to worry about running out of light! It’s a shame the table light can’t be used at the same time as the saws/drill press – I’d be lure making 24/7!
Battery And Charging
18 volt, lithium-ion power handle with fast charger.
These batteries are fantastic! Fast charging, powerful and no memory issues to worry about. That means you don’t have to worry about running the battery flat, leaving it part charged or using it before it reaches full charge. The Power8 Workshop case has two charge points, so I have very little “downtime”. A second battery is pretty affordable and cuts downtime to zero!
Drill & Drill Press
- 2 Speed Metal Gearbox
- Hammer/Rotary/Driver Functions
- 13mm Keyless Ratchet Chuck
- 21 Torque Settings
- No Load Speed 0-350, 0-950 rpm
Saw & Saw Table
- 140mm TCT Saw Blade
- 40mm Depth Of Cut
- Bevel, Mitre, Rip, Crosscut
- Metal Gears & Spindle Lock
- 3500 rpm No Load Speed
- Variable Speed For Wood/Metal
- 40mm Depth Of Cut
- Bevel Cutting Capability
- 2400 spm No Load Speed
Light & Light Table
- Super bright 3W LED Light Head
- Swivel Head
- Hand Held Or Table Mounted
Case & Accessories
- Sturdy Armoured Case With Stainless Steel Work Surface
- Integral Fast Charger Dock With Secondary Charge Point
- Lift-Out Canvas Storage Bag to Protect Tools Inside Case
- Stainless Steel Fence/Drill Post With Return Spring And Spirit Level
- Saw Fitted With Riving Knife and Guard. Safety Push Stick Included
- Drill And Jigsaw Accessory Kit, Including Bits, Drivers, Blades
- Work Clamp For Safe Scroll Saw and Drill Press Operation
- Users Manual
Your Power8 Workshop is covered by a full 2 year warranty on all parts excluding the power handle. As per industry standard, the power handle comes with a 6 month warranty. If you have any problems with your Power8 Workshop just contact us to arrange for a replacement part to be shipped to you.
Your Power8 Workshop will normally be shipped within 1 working day of your order being placed and will be couriered to your door. Delivery times vary depending on where you live and how far you are from a major center, but are normally 7-10 days. Sometimes customer receive their unit in 2-3 days, very rarely it takes more than 10 days. In any case, you’ll be sent tracking information once your order has shipped.